Unveiling the History of Heybeliada
Heybeliada stands as the second largest of the Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara, near Istanbul. Its name translates to Saddlebag Island, a nod to the hills at both ends that resemble saddlebags. Locally and historically known as Halky, the island carries a rich Greek heritage, with its name traced back to the word for copper due to the mineral once mined here during the Byzantine era. The island’s early copper mining roots date back to a figure named Demonisos, whose work in the Çamlimanı area contributed to this legacy.
In the 16th century, Heybeliada became a refuge for the wealthy Christian population fleeing plague outbreaks in Istanbul. Although the island faced trials such as fires and earthquakes across the centuries, habitation has persisted. By the 19th century, the copper mine ceased operation for profitability reasons, while the island gained fame for hosting a Greek Orthodox seminary, a center for clergy training.
Transitioning into the 20th century, Heybeliada became well-known as a health retreat following the opening of a tuberculosis sanatorium in 1924 at Yeşil Burnu, or Green Point. Among its notable visitors was İsmet İnönü, Turkey’s first prime minister and second president, who fell in love with the island enough to buy a summer home here. Today, the island retains much of its serene pine-covered charm, largely protected thanks to military-owned lands that have preserved its greenery and tranquillity. Unlike its bustling neighbor Büyükada, Heybeliada offers a quieter and less crowded escape from city life.
Top Sights to Explore on Heybeliada
The island’s terrain boasts four hills, offering plenty to discover. Given its size, exploring the entire island on foot can be time-consuming, so visitors often choose to split their sightseeing over multiple trips or rent bicycles for easier mobility. For beach lovers, it’s wise to pick one or two main attractions to visit alongside swimming spots.
The points of interest on Heybeliada can be broadly categorized into three: the island center, the northern hill of Ümit Tepe, and the scenic circuit around the southern coast.
Heybeliada Centre Highlights
- Marine High School & Naval Base: Founded in 1773 as the School of Naval Engineering, now serving as the Naval High Command base. Inside its grounds lies the historic Panagia Kamariotissa Church, an 11th or 12th-century tetraconch building, but public access is restricted.
- St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church: Rebuilt in 1857 atop Byzantine ruins, this cruciform church features a bell tower with a bell from Russia. Though primarily used by Armenians and Assyrians today, it occasionally welcomes visitors, often around late afternoon.
- Bet Yaakov Synagogue: Serving Jewish holidaymakers since 1956, this modest building remains active under the Neve Şalom Foundation’s care, supporting Istanbul’s Jewish communities.
- İsmet İnönü House: This museum displays the former residence of the significant Turkish political figure, showcasing personal and family memorabilia. It’s open daily except Monday and charges a modest entry fee.
A walk through the central streets also reveals charming historical houses, including the elegant former Merit Halki Palace Hotel and Heybeli Sahaf, a quaint second-hand bookstore nestled in traditional wooden architecture.
Ümit Tepe and Surroundings
Ümit Tepe, or Priest Mountain, is crowned by the Heybeliada Greek Orthodox Seminary. Operational from 1844 until 1971, it was a prestigious theological institute for Orthodox clergy, counting patriarchs including Bartholomew I among its alumni. Though currently inactive, visitors can explore the grounds, which include a vast library, a biblical plant garden of 82 species, and roaming peacocks adding natural charm.
The nearby Değirmen Burnu Nature Park offers a picnic area and organized beach facilities with barbecue spots and a restaurant. Entrance and beach fees are charged, making it ideal for family outings. Note that the beach is a family designated area, and single men are typically not admitted.
Southwest Circuit Loop (Approx. 7km)
For those wanting to explore more extensively, the trail from the wharf heads along the coast past serene parks and the Turkish Red Crescent Youth Camp, known for its friendly atmosphere. The Aya Yorgi Monastery, dating back to the late 16th century and linked to plague refuge seekers, is visible though surrounded by military grounds, limiting close access and photography.
Heybeliada’s history also unfolds with sights like the former sanatorium – Turkey’s first tuberculosis hospital – which functioned until 2005, providing not only medical treatment but vocational training for patients. The Greek Orthodox cemetery lies close by, but typically restricted from public entry.
The circuit continues to tranquil spots such as Terk-i Dünya Monastery with its scenic tea garden, the less-developed and scenic Alman Beach, and the striking Monument to Russian Prisoners, a memorial for soldiers captured during the Ottoman-Russian War, enveloped in poignant inscriptions.
Heybeliada Beaches and Relaxation
Though the term ‘beach’ here may not conjure images of expansive sandy shores like in Australia, Heybeliada offers several swimming spots worth visiting. Ada Beach Club is well-maintained, with comfortable loungers, umbrellas, showers, and an included boat transfer from the island’s main wharf. The ambiance suits those who enjoy an organized beach day but can be lively with music playing throughout.
By contrast, the adjacent beach offers a quieter option at a slightly lower price but lacks amenities and has a less tidy sand area. Visitors should wear sturdy footwear due to the rugged access path.
Dining Options on Heybeliada
While not as extensively visited as nearby islands, Heybeliada’s culinary scene centers around a small square near St. Nicholas Church, featuring cafes and small restaurants serving authentic Turkish fare. Friendly local spots offer soups, grilled specialties, and casual meals at reasonable prices. For water views and a refreshing break, Lady Café provides a pleasant setting with affordable drinks and attentive staff.
Getting to Heybeliada: Ferry Routes and Tips
Various ferry lines connect Heybeliada to Istanbul, with options depending on your starting point. On the European side, most travelers opt to depart from Kabataş due to limited city line services from Beşiktaş. Operators like Dentur Avrasya and Mavi Marmara offer regular services from key docks including Beşiktaş, Kabataş, Eminönü, and Kadıköy on the Asian side. Some city ferries also run from Maltepe and Bostancı, although with fewer options.
For anyone less keen on wandering solo, organized Princes Island tours provide guided experiences to navigate the island’s sights efficiently.
Підсумок
Heybeliada is a captivating island blending rich history with natural beauty and tranquil escapes from Istanbul’s hustle. From ancient copper mines and Orthodox seminaries to serene beaches and vibrant local eateries, the island offers a variety of experiences. Whether exploring archaeological sites, enjoying beach days, or taking in picturesque views along scenic circuits, Heybeliada invites visitors to slow down and embrace a unique cultural and natural heritage.
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Looking ahead, Heybeliada’s appeal as a peaceful retreat amid Istanbul’s vibrant urban life remains steady, though its influence on the broader travel landscape is modest. LocalsRide stays attuned to such developments, always ready to keep pace with traveler needs. Start planning your next adventure and secure your worldwide transfer with LocalsRide.